A Weekend in and around Rye - by JP Clark - HOME & HORT
A Weekend in and around Rye
A cosy holiday cottage, three vineyards, two gardens, antique & interior shops galore, Derek Jarman’s cottage, a harbour nature reserve, and some of the best pubs and restaurants.
JP Clark
Jun 21, 2026
Apologies for only one newsletter this week. It’s been a tad hectic and very stressful with the build, wretched conservation officers, and annoying brand partnerships, resulting in me having to miss the Substack Summer Fěte in London and running out of time for Thursday’s post. There will be a full update on the renovation gossip next Sunday, I’ve got so much to tell you. Plus, there’s another guest interview next week too. But, today I’m making up for my tardiness with a bumper guide to one of my favourite coastal towns in the world and a mecca for interior and garden lovers, foodies, winos, and nature lovers: Rye.
My family history is deep-seated in the medieval town of Rye in East Sussex, with its cobbled streets clustered around a sandstone hillside overlooking the River Rother and Romney Marsh. Many hundreds of years ago Rye was a famous port and haven for smugglers. It was surrounded by water and formed part of the Cinque Ports, using the town’s hilltop vantage point to build Ypres Tower to ward off invaders and defend the town.
I’m currently researching my family tree and have discovered that my ancestors were not only responsible for building local landmarks, but many were fishermen and had direct connections with two prominent local families, one is famous for its independent supermarkets (Jempsons) and the other for arguably the most talked about man in Rye, a murderer! I’m writing a whole post about that, so won’t go into all the details now.
I’ve always loved the town and felt very much at home there. With so many historic buildings lining its charming streets, it has to be one of the most well-preserved examples of England’s architecture from wonky medieval relics, the cutest of picture postcard cottages, to stunning Georgian townhouses. Today it’s a thriving, trendy hub, which attracts an eclectic, bohemian mix of artists, interior designers, and some of the best restaurateurs. The smell of the sea fills the air as seagulls circle overhead. Its maritime roots can be seen everywhere from Mermaid Street to the 19th-century quayside buildings of The Strand. It’s a place you’ll want to visit time and time again.
The surrounding area offers the peace and tranquility of Rye Harbour Nature Reserve, famous vineyards, and historic gardens. I’ve just come back from the most wonderful long weekend away there, visiting Great Dixter with other Home & Hort readers. Here’s my recommendations for where to stay and eat, along with the best interior and lifestyle shops, vineyards, and gardens. Enjoy!